服饰心理学.ppt

1、时装画技法FASHION ILLUSTRATION,Date: 1st Oct. 2005SECOND EDITION,序篇：历史源流 FOREWORD: About History,时装画的发展渊源可以追溯到西欧的文艺复兴时期。 当时的服装画只是对已有的服装式样的记录，其中包括流行服装、民俗服装及舞台服装，其表现手法多采用素描和版画形式。,序篇：历史源流 About History,时装画的历史,The origin of Fashion Illustration can be backward to Revival of Learning in west Europe. At that t

2、ime, it is just a recode of garment style.,进入20世纪以来，随着人类社会的文化思想、艺术思潮和艺术形式的丰富与活跃，时装画逐渐从美术家那里分离出来。,时装画的历史,序篇：历史源流 About History,Entering the 20th century, fashion illustration was apart from painter.,20世纪，开始出现了专门为有关画报和杂志画的时装画。 计算机技术的介入为时装画插上了翅膀。,时装画的历史,序篇：历史源流 About History,Interposition of the comput

3、er and software,时装画的分类,时装草图快捷地 反映设计师思维成果的符号性记录，也可以指指导消费、预告流行、被宣传媒介广泛应用的图。,一时装画的定义 DEFINITION,Fashion drawings type,Fashion sketch is the symbolic record expressing designers ideas fleetly, sometimes can be used to other fashion aims.,时装画的分类,时装效果图是服装设计师将设计灵感通过点、线、面、体以及色彩等要素，在平面上创作形象，所描绘出来的一种着装图，,一时装画

4、的定义 DEFINITION,Fashion drawings type,fashion illustration is the flat expression combined fashion designers ideas and visual dots, lines , surfaces, spaces and color elements.,时装画的分类,时装效果图：设计意识的再度体现和具体化（工艺、面料），画面中的服装款式结构、工艺特点及装饰配件等都要表现得极为准确、清晰，其设计（表达）对象是某一阶层或某一行业、某一年龄段的人。,一时装画的定义 DEFINITION,Fashion

5、drawings type,fashion illustrations character: materiality, nicety, clarity.,时装画的分类,平面结构图：将款式结构、工艺特点、装饰细节以及制作流程进一步细化形成的具有切实科学依据的图，为了便于制作，甚至每一个附件和压缝线等都要加以说明。,一时装画的定义 DEFINITION,Fashion drawings type,fashion flat drawing ：map of style, structure, techniques, detail, working flow.,时装画的分类,时装插画是应用在广告和商标上

6、的时装画。,一时装画的定义 DEFINITION,Fashion drawings type,fashion drawing is a kind of especial form used in advertisement and logo.,时装画的分类,资料式的效果图：忠实地记录服装细节，便于查询和保存。,一时装画的定义 DEFINITION,Fashion drawings type,garment map is record of garments details truly for checking and recording.,工具,Toolspencils:Hhard leads

7、, make a lighter, thinner line with less smudging ability. the range from H up to 6(12)H.Bsoft leads, make a darker, thicker line with the ability to smudge. the range from B up to 6(8)B.HBin between leads, make a line of middle value of dark and light, in between soft and hard.炭笔China marker pencil

8、charcoaladvice: mechanical pencil,二时装画使用的工具和材料 TOOLS & MATERIALS,工具,what you need while you drawing fashion illustration?,Toolspens:蘸水笔arrowheadboth thin and moderate thin lines针管笔needle pointextra fine tip, retains its shape普通钢笔fountain pen point美工钢笔square nib圆珠笔ball-point pen,二时装画使用的工具和材料 TOOLS &

9、MATERIALS,工具,what you need while you drawing fashion illustration?,Toolscolored pencil:Usually come in all-wood bodies.colored pencilregular colored pencil, make a coarser, broader-based line. Water-soluble colored pencilproduce as fine a line as the regular colored pencil, but, they react to and bl

10、end with water. to create the desired effect, water can be added before or after coloring with these pencils.,二时装画使用的工具和材料 TOOLS & MATERIALS,工具,what you need while you drawing fashion illustration?,MaterialWater color:There are four basic types of watercolors to choose from when rendering a fashion

11、sketch.块状颜料dots or Square cakes块状颜料tubes of gouache瓶装颜料Jars of tempera or poster paint瓶装墨水Bottles of ink,二时装画使用的工具和材料 TOOLS & MATERIALS,工具,what you need while you drawing fashion illustration?,MaterialPAPER草稿纸layout paper描图纸tracing paper复印纸copy paper牛皮纸vellum paper通用纸all-purpose paper卡纸marker paper水

12、彩纸watercolor paper 动画原稿纸comic & anis reports,二时装画使用的工具和材料 TOOLS & MATERIALS,照片研究。,what you need while you drawing fashion illustration?,Photographic research considerations for collecting photographic research:prepare and label a folder for each figure category.avoid seated or reclining poses.collec

13、t bathing suits or intimate apparel in all views.,二时装画使用的工具和材料 TOOLS & MATERIALS,用照片辅助时装画和时装设计,what you need while you drawing fashion illustration?,this using a photograph as a clothing guide and sketching a designHere, a suit with a tight skirt is used as a base. The folds of the sleeve remain, as

14、 well as the general action of the figure, but the design has changed.,二时装画使用的工具和材料 TOOLS & MATERIALS,人体的正常比例,比例准确是人体美、服装美的前提。,generally, to achieve a fashion effect or sketching for design purposes, lengthen these distances: chin to shoulders, waist to chest, and leg length.,二时装画中人体的比例 BODY PROPORT

15、ION,Exact proportion is a precondition of physical beauty and fashion beauty.,人体的正常比例,二时装画中人体的比例 BODY PROPORTION,about human body observation from drawing of the nude. the study of the human body is absolutely necessary before studying fashion figure drawing. the human body is the base, the medium,

16、of the volume of any garment, of the way it hangs, of its character.,人体的理想比例,艺术的总规律在于：艺术来源于生活，而又高于生活。,二时装画中人体的比例 BODY PROPORTION,although, our models and photographs are real people, we are trying to construct a fantasy figure. a good deal of imagination is helpful. try not to be too literal when sk

17、etching figures, especially clothes, which can seem to appear as a mass of folds and wrinkles.,Art root in life, is also the expression and abstract of life.,二时装画中人体的比例 BODY PROPORTION,construction of the frontal viewStep-by-step#4 draw the different joints using small circles: Of the arms (I)； ! Of

18、 the elbows (G) Of the waists (D)； ! Of the hips (M) Of the knees (N=at the middle of MC)#5 symbolize the limbs, the head , the hands, the feet volume,女性正面比例 绘制步骤,二时装画中人体的比例 BODY PROPORTION,construction of the profileStep-by-step#1 use the same guide marks as for the frontal view figures : A-E-H-F-G

19、-D-N (knee)-C (ankle)-B#2 symbolize the spine(脊柱) to the coccix(臀部？) with a flattened S-shape (line 1) draw a curve ending at the knee (N), from the base of neck (H), (line 2) draw a slightly curved line from the waist representing the arching of the outstretched leg (C ) (line 3),女性正侧面比例 绘制步骤,二时装画中

20、人体的比例 BODY PROPORTION,construction of the profileStep-by-step#3 starting with these three main lines, place the exact volumes of the bust, the upper and lower limbs and the joints.#4 finish the pose adding the important details of the bust (shoulder, clavicle(锁骨), underarm, position of the chest) vo

21、lume of the hand, the neck and the foot.,女性正侧面比例 绘制步骤,服装用人体的比例,人体的比例也以标准比例为基础，8.5头身比例是服装画中普通使用的比例 。,二时装画中人体的比例 BODY PROPORTION,Fashion body proportion bases on standard proportion,8.5 is normally used in fashion illustration.,二时装画中人体的比例 BODY PROPORTION,儿童3/4侧面比例 绘制步骤,construction of profile,小结,总之人体比

22、例的拉长、夸张，必须以人体的客观实在为基础，在作画时，要慎重而非主观臆断。,二时装画中人体的比例 BODY PROPORTION,Dont exaggerate body proportion as you like.,人的头部和五官, the 3/4 is between the frontal view and the profile. the guide mark and proportions are the same, nevertheless there are some changes to be made.,三时装画中人体的结构 BODY CONSTRUCTURE,了解人体躯干

23、的运动规律：人的主体是躯干，脊柱起到上下联系的作用，连贯头、胸部和骨盆，上肢和下肢分别附生在胸廓和骨盆上，通过关节连接，可自由活动。,四时装画中人体的姿态 BODY POSE,Understand the rule of body movement!,人体重心重心是人的重量的集中点。,四时装画中人体的姿态 BODY POSE,limb and cg (center of gravity) Balance line is a line that is perpendicular to the floor. this line when held (or drawn) against the fi

24、gure will keep the body from tipping over.,总结： 在时装画中，人体的姿态多种多样，唯一的窍门就是找准关键点和主要线。,四时装画中人体的姿态 BODY POSE,Bodys poses are various, the most important way is finding key dots and main lines.,服装平面图概述,一、结构图的表现,The flat, we approach here, after the study of the human body, the study of the garment.,5 服装和服装的

25、细节,服装平面结构图又叫服装款式图，即用平面的表现方法描绘服装的款式结构。在设计实践和生产实践中，服装平面图是最为快速、准确、有效的沟通工具。,外形轮廓,一、结构图的表现,The flat, We speak then of the general “outline” of the silhouette. We distinguish different kinds: straight, round, trapeze, cut at the waist or flowing,5 服装和服装的细节,服装的分部表现主要分为：服装结构分类领、袖、摆、襟；服装细节分类纽扣、拉链、袋、衩；服装附件分类鞋

26、、帽、包、巾。,一、结构图的表现,The flat, Garment can be differentiated to:different structures,different details,different accessories, etc,5 服装和服装的细节,领子 the collars,一、结构图的表现,The flat,a whole collar include neckline, collar band, turnover line and outside collar.,从结构上说，一个完整的领子包括了领线、领座、领翻折线和领面等四个部分。,5 服装和服装的细节,一、结

27、构图的表现,1服装的分部表现,The flat,怎样画领型？how to draw necklines and collars,1 find center/front line and shoulder line, check their vertical relationship;2 find shoulder neck intersection and neck line;3 find the intersection from collar line to c/f line;4 draw the shape of collar band and outside collar;5 noti

28、ce: the interspace between collar and neck.,5 服装和服装的细节,从结构上说，一个完整的袖子包括袖山（袖肥）、袖窿、袖身、袖口等4大部分。,一、结构图的表现,1服装的分部表现,The flat,a whole sleeve include cap (biceps line), armhole, sleeve and sleeve opening.,5 服装和服装的细节,一、结构图的表现,1服装的分部表现,The flat,怎样画袖型？how to draw sleeves,1 find shoulder point and armhole;2 dec

29、ide the shape of sleeve cap;3 decide the length of sleeve;4 decide the shape of sleeve opening or cuff;5 notice: the interspace between sleeve and arm or wrist.,5 服装和服装的细节,从功能上说，有的口袋具有实用功能，有的口袋具有装饰功能，有的口袋两种功能兼而有之。,一、结构图的表现,1服装的分部表现,The flat,pockets function combines practicality and decoration.,5 服装

30、和服装的细节,从功能上，门襟是穿着方式的问题。,一、结构图的表现,1服装的分部表现,The flat,in function, cross-over means how to dress the body.,5 服装和服装的细节,从功能上说，纽扣是带结文化系带方式的问题。纽扣也有实用功能和装饰功能，或者两种功能兼而有之。,一、结构图的表现,1服装的分部表现,The flat,buttons function combines practicality and decoration, too.,5 服装和服装的细节,一、结构图的表现,1服装的分部表现,The flat, Box pleats T

31、opstitched flat pleats Large pleats Smockingetc.,褶皱the pleats,5 服装和服装的细节,一、结构图的表现,1服装的分部表现,The flat, Chest dart Front waist dart Underarm dart Fish dartetc.,颡道the darts,5 服装和服装的细节,一、结构图的表现,The flat,To begin with, we should have a global, general view of the garment. First it is a matter of fullness

32、of volumes, of movements, of colures or of prints.,通过平面结构图，能够清晰而准确地向制板师、样衣师以及缝制工人传达服装设计师的设计意图，制作出与设计方案完全吻合的成品服装来。,2服装结构图,5 服装和服装的细节,一、结构图的表现,The flat,An “outline” will evoke a combination of garments, of colures, of fabrics and eventually of details (armhole, neckline, etc ),平面结构图的特殊性在于，它在表达款式造型设计的同

33、时，要明确提示服装整体及各个关键部位结构线、装饰线与工艺制作要点，以及服装所选用的面料。,2服装结构图,5 服装和服装的细节,3、结构图三要素比例、结构、线迹,一、结构图的表现,The flat,in all, the most important elements of garment flat is proportion, structure and line.,5 服装和服装的细节,一、结构图的表现,The flat, thin broken lineseam line thin real linedraping line thick real lineparting line, str

34、ucture line thicker real linesilhouette line, shaped line,服装平面结构图所常用的线条一般有三种，即粗实线、细实线和虚线。粗实线一般用来表现服装及服装零部件的外轮廓线;细实线则表现服装的内轮廓线，即省道线、分割线和装饰线;缝辑线一般用虚线表示;有时会用最细的实线表示衣纹。,5 服装和服装的细节,结构图描绘：裙装的模板,一、结构图的表现,裙装是女性服装中扮演着重要的角色，其变化繁多，风格多样。,The flat,5 服装和服装的细节,结构图描绘：裙装的模板,一、结构图的表现,裙装模板绘制：见上图A 先画中心点划线，表示左右对称；B 确定裙装

35、的基本长度：裙长100厘米；腰线到臀线25厘米；C 确定裙装的基本宽度：臀宽40厘米；腰宽30厘米,The flat,5 服装和服装的细节,结构图描绘：裙装的模板,一、结构图的表现,裙装模板绘制： 见下图D 画出裙装的基本轮廓：腰高5厘米；连接腰侧点和臀侧点，并延长，获得裙摆展开的参考线；以腰侧点为圆心，裙长为半径划圆弧，获得裙摆展开的其他参考线。,The flat,5 服装和服装的细节,结构图描绘：裙装的步骤,一、结构图的表现,步骤1：先确定裙装的前中线位置，画出裙装模板；步骤2：用最粗线，画出裙装的外部轮廓线，确定裙摆的长度；,The flat,5 服装和服装的细节,结构图描绘：裙装的步骤

36、,一、结构图的表现,步骤3：用次粗线，画出裙装的内部分割线，逐步细化，画出裙装的更多款式细节；步骤4：用最细线，描绘裙装的缝迹线。必要时添加少量的衣纹或阴影，并最终调整画面至完成。,The flat,5 服装和服装的细节,直拉型衣纹,二、结构图中衣褶的表现,当人体各个部位运动时，由于抻拉的作用致使衣服的某些地方出现了紧绷的感觉。 面料被外力向向背方向拉伸，就产生了整齐、平行、窄长的直拉型衣纹。 其衣纹平行于受力方向，线形集中，指向受力点。,The pleats and drops,5 服装和服装的细节,什么是材质？ 服装的材质包括材料和质地两个属性。 材料是指面料物质的类别。 服装的质地是指材

37、料通过加工变成适合服装用的面料后表现出来的纹理结构和性质。,一、质感,6 服装材质的表现技巧,表现质感的轮廓线。,一、质感,对于服装来说，服装转折的厚度是非常重要的细节。,6 服装材质的表现技巧,表现质感的笔触,一、质感,一方面：齐整细密、严谨粗放毛糙、针织毛衫整体光滑、柔和细碎多皱、多褶另一方面：轻型面料线条流畅、涂色轻松厚型面料线条粗壮、笨拙，笔触不均匀,6 服装材质的表现技巧,表现质感的肌理,一、质感,服装面料可以用做多种肌理描绘，因为肌理是细小的，所以往往是选择局部来描绘，而不是整体。否则反倒会造成死板、多余的感觉。,6 服装材质的表现技巧,表现质感的花型,一、质感,时装画中对于图案的

38、表现主要为服装面料上的图案和装饰在服装上的各种图案，一般面料上的图案有印花图案和织花图案两种。,6 服装材质的表现技巧,图案印花、织花,一、质感,6 服装材质的表现技巧,棉,二、材料,性能天然棉花纤维纺纱、织造而成，吸湿透气，柔软舒适，弹性比较差；易皱。,6 服装材质的表现技巧,麻,二、材料,性能天然麻植物纤维纺纱、织造而成，强度高，舒适透气，易洗快干，凉爽挺括，弹性比较好；较易皱。品种常见市场产品种类有：主要有苎麻和亚麻两种。,6 服装材质的表现技巧,呢绒,二、材料,性能以羊毛为主，包括兔毛、驼毛、马海毛等动物的毛纤维，纺纱织造而成。保暖吸湿性能良好，富有弹性，手感柔软，光泽柔和，较不易皱。,6 服装材质的表现技巧,针织,二、材料,表达以粗糙的肌理感为主，排线清晰，明度和谐。,6 服装材质的表现技巧,其他魅力面料的表达,二、材料,6 服装材质的表现技巧,质感的综合运用和表达,二、材料,6 服装材质的表现技巧,作业,质感的综合运用练习 ：内容：绘制3张单人效果图，每张表达不同面料2种，并画出正面结构图。（也可以选择三张时装照片，改变动态，临摹服装和面料）要求：8开大小28*40厘米；质感清晰、典型、简洁，结构图规范、准确；材料工具不限，服装类型、色彩不限；注重画面美感和技法的熟练表达，鼓励原创。,6 服装材质的表现技巧,