1、Lesson 15: The Beauty Industry 美容用品业 The one American industry unaffected by the general depression of trade is the beamy industry. 美国工业中惟一未受贸易大萧条影响的是美容用品业。 American women continue to spend on their faces and bodies as much as they spent before the coming of the slump 經濟蕭條前 about three million pound
2、s a week. 美国妇女仍不断在她们的脸上和身体上花费与经济萧条到来之前同样多的钱 每周约300 万英镑。 These facts and figures are “official“, and can he accepted as being substantially 充分 true. 这些事实与数字都是官方的，可大致属实。 Reading them. I was only surprised by the comparative 相對較小 smallness of the sums expended. 当读到这时，我只为花费的数目相对较小而感到惊奇。 From the prodigi
3、ous 巨大 number of advertisements of aids to beauty contained in the American magazines, 从美国杂志上铺天盖地的化妆品广告来看， I had imagined that the personal appearance business must stand high up among the champions of American industrythe equal, or only just less than the equal, of bootlegging 販賣私酒 and racketeering
4、,敲詐勒索 movies and automobiles. 从美国杂志上铺天盖地的化妆品广告来看，我原以为美容用品业一定居美国工业群雄之首，与贩卖私酒和敲诈勒索，电影和汽车业并驾齐驱或稍逊一筹。 Still, one hundred and fifty-six million pounds a year is a tidy 相當大的 sum. 虽然如此，每年 1 亿 5，600 万英镑是一个相当不小的数目， Rather more than twice the revenue 收入 of India, if I remember rightly. 如果我没有记错的话，超出印度年收入的两倍。 I
5、 do not know what the European figures are. Much smaller undoubtedly. 我不知道欧洲的数字是多少，毫无疑问要小得多。 Europe is poor, and a face can cost as much in upkeep as a Rolls-Royce. 欧洲很穷，保养一张脸需要花费和保养一辆罗尔斯 罗伊斯牌汽车一样多的钱。 The most that the majority of European women can do is just to wash and hope for the best. 大多欧洲妇女最多
6、只能洗洗脸，听天由命。 Perhaps the soap will produce its loudly advertised effects; 也许肥皂会产生广告中大肆宣扬的效果， perhaps it will transform them into the likeness of those ravishing creatures who smile so rosily and creamily 紅潤白嫩, so peachily 艷如桃李 and pearlily 美若珠肌, from every hoarding 廣告牌. 也许能把她们变成像那些在每块广告牌上绽开令人陶醉的红润白嫩、
7、艳如桃李、美若珠玑般笑容的女郎。 Perhaps, on the other hand, it may not. 另一方面，或许肥皂不具有这种效能。 In any case, the more costly experiments in beautification are still as much beyond most European means as are high-powered motor-cars and electric refrigerators. 无论怎样，在装饰自己上更为昂贵的试验和大马力汽车及电冰箱一样都是欧洲人的经济能力所不及的。 Even in Europe,
8、however, much more is now spent on beauty than was ever spent in the past. 然而即使在欧洲，如今花在化妆品上的钱比过去任何时候都要多得多， Not quite so much more as in America, that is all. 只不过比起美国来要逊色些罢了。 But, everywhere, the increase has been undoubtedly enormous.增長無疑是巨大的 但无论在任何地方，增长无疑是巨大的。 The fact is significant. 这一事实意义重大。 To
9、what is it due? 为什么会出现这种现象呢？ In part, I suppose, to a general increase in prosperity 繁榮. 我认为部分是由于普遍增长的繁荣。 The rich have always cultivated their personal appearance. 有钱的人总是追求个人容貌的修饰， The diffusion 擴散 of wealthsuch as it isnow permits those of the poor who are less badly off than their fathers to do t
10、he same. 财富的扩散 尽管程度并不大，境况比其父辈稍好一些的穷人也能这样做。 But this is, clearly, not the whole story. 但显然这并非事情的全部。 The modern cult of beauty is not exclusively 不隻是 a function (in the mathematical sense) of wealth. 现代对美貌的狂热崇拜并不只是财富的作用（从数学意义上看） ， If it were, then the personal appearance industries would have been as
11、hardly hit by the trade depression as any other business. 因为如果是这样，那么美容用品业就会和其他企业一样受到贸易萧条的沉重打击。 But, as we have seen, they have not suffered. 但是正如我们所见，它并未受到损失。 Women are retrenching 緊縮 on other things than their faces. 女人们在美容之外的一切方面紧缩开支， The cult of beauty must therefore be symptomatic of changes tha
12、t have taken place outside the economic sphere 因而对美貌的狂热崇拜必定表现了经济领域以外产生的变化。 . Of what changes? Of the changes, I suggest, in the status of women; of the changes in our attitude towards “the merely physical.“單純是肉體的變化 什么变化？我认为表现了妇女地位的变化，表现了我们对“单纯是肉体”的态度的变化。 Women, it is obvious, are freer than in the p
13、ast. 很显然，妇女比过去自由了， Freer not only to perform the generally unenviable social functions hitherto 迄今為止 reserved 保留 to the male, 不仅在完成迄今为止由男性完成的并值得羡慕的社会职能上比较自由了， but also freer to exercise the more pleasing, feminine privilege of being attractive. 而且在运用更令人愉快的女性吸引力的特权上比较自由了。 They have the right, if not
14、to be less virtuous than their grandmothers, at any rate to look less virtuous 貞淑. 如果她们没有权利不如祖母们贞淑，至少可以有权利看起来不那么贞淑。 The British Matron, not long since a creature of austere 嚴峻 and even terrifying aspect, 英国的命妇不久前还是神色严厉可怕的人物， now does her best to achieve and perennially 永久 preserve 保持 the appearance
15、of what her predecessor 前輩 would have described as a Lost Woman. She often succeeds. 现在也尽一切努力获得并常年保持她的前辈会称作为荡妇的外表,她们常能做到这点。 But we are not shockedat any rate, not morally shocked. 但我们并不感到震惊，至少在道德上没有震惊。 Aesthetically shockedyes; we may sometimes be that. But morally, no. 审美上受到震惊 是的，有时是这样，但道德上没有 We co
16、ncede 讓步 that the Matron is morally justified 正當的 in being preoccupied with her personal appearance. 我们作出让步，承认命妇专注于个人容貌在道德上是正当的， This concession 讓步 depends on another of a more general naturea concession to the Body, with a large B, to the Manichaean principle of evil 这一让步是基于另一个性质更为一般的让步，即将带有大写 B 的肉
17、体让与摩尼教中说的邪恶， For we have now come to admit that the body has its rights. 因为我们现在已经承认了肉体具有自己的权利。 And not only rightsduties, actually duties. It has, for example, a duty to do the best it can for itself in the way of strength and beauty. 而且不仅是权利 还有责任，具体的责任。例如它有责任在力与美方面尽其所能地使自己得到满足。 Christian-ascetic id
18、eas no longer trouble us. 基督教的禁欲主义不再令我们不安。 We demand justice for the body as well as for the soul. 我们要求灵魂以及肉体都能得到公正的对待。 Hence, among other things, the fortunes made by face-cream manufacturers and beauty-specialists, by the vendors of rubber reducing belts and massage machines, by the patentees of h
19、air-lotions and the authors of books on the culture of the abdomen.腹部線條 因此其结果之一便是雪花膏生产者和美容专家、橡胶减肥带及头油专利者和保持腹部线条指导书的作者们大发其财 What are the practical results of this modern cult of beauty? 现代对美貌的狂热崇拜造成的具体结果是什么？ The exercises and the massage, the health motors and the skin foodsto what have they led? 锻炼与
20、按摩机和护肤用品 它们造成了什么结果？ Are women more beautiful than they were? 女人们比过去漂亮了？ Do they get something for the enormous 大量 expenditure of energy, time, and money demanded of them by the beauty-cult? 由于对美貌的崇拜使她们花去大量的精力、时间和金钱，她们从中获得了什么吗？ These are questions which it is difficult to answer. For the facts seem t
21、o contradict themselves. 这些都是很难回答的问题，因为事实似乎互相矛盾。 The campaign for more physical beauty seems to be both a tremendous success 巨大的成功 and a lamentable failure 可悲的失敗, It depends on how you look at the results. 为取得更丰富的体貌美的运动似乎既是巨大的成功也是可悲的失败，看你如何看待。 It is a success in so far as more women retain their you
22、thful appearance to a greater age than in the past. 从更多的女人比过去更长久地保持年轻外貌这一点看，这是个成功。 “Old ladies“ are already becoming rare. “老太太”已经很少见了。 In a few years, we may well believe, they will be extinct 絕跡. 我们可以相信，几年后她将绝迹。 White hair and wrinkles, a bent back and hollow cheeks will come to be regarded as med
23、ievally 中世紀 old-fashioned. 满头白发、满脸皱纹、弯腰曲背、两颊深陷会被看作是中世纪般的过时 The crone of the future will be golden, curly 卷曲 and cherry-lipped, neatankled 勻側 and slender. 未来的老太婆将有卷曲的金发，樱桃红唇，匀侧脚踝，苗条身材。 The Portrait of the Artists Mother will come to be almost indistinguishable 難以分辯, at future picture shows, from the
24、Portrait of the Artists Daughter. 在未来的画展上，艺术家母亲的画像与其女儿的画像将变得几乎难以分辨， This desirable consummation will be due in pan to skin foods and injections of paraffin-wax, facial surgery, mud baths 泥浴, and paint, in part to improved health, due in its turn to a more rational mode of life. 这一令人满意的结果一部分是由于有了护肤品和
25、使胸部丰满的石蜡，整形外科，泥浴，化妆品，另外也由于更合理的生活方式造成的健康状态的改善。 Ugliness is one of the symptoms of disease, beauty of health. 丑陋是疾病的症状之一，美则是健康的象征。 In so far as the campaign for more beauty is also a campaign for more health,it is admirable and, up to a point, genuinely successful. 争取更多美丽的运动就是争取更健康的运动，就这点而言，是值得赞许的，并且在
26、一定程度上是真正获得了成功。 Beauty that is merely the artificial shadow of these symptoms of health is intrinsically of poorer quality than the genuine article. 模仿出来的象征健康的美本质上就比真货质量差， Still, it is a sufficiently good imitation(模仿) to be sometimes mistakeable for the real thing. 然而模仿技术有时足以乱真。 The apparatus 器具 for
27、 mimicking 模仿 the symptoms of health is now within the reach of every moderately prosperous person; 以仿造健康状态的设备现在每一个中等富裕的人都可以买得起； the knowledge of the way in which real health can be achieved is growing, and will in time, no doubt, be universally acted upon. 用有关真正健康方面的知识也在不断增加，且无疑终将被所有人采用。 When that
28、happy moment conies, will every woman be beautifulas beautiful, at any rate, as the natural shape of her features, with or without surgical and chemical aid, permits? 当那个幸福时刻来临之时，是否每个女人都会很美丽 至少和她五官的自然形状在有或没有外科手术或化物品的帮助下同样美丽? The answer is emphatically 斷然的: No. For real beauty is as much an affair of
29、 the inner as of the outer self. 回答是断然的：不是。真正的美，内在与外表同样重要。 The beauty of a porcelain jar 陶器罐 is a matter of shape, of colour, of surface texture. 细瓷瓶美在外形、色彩、质地。 The jar may be empty or tenanted by spiders, full of honey or stinking slime 罐子可能是空的，也可能为蜘蛛盘踞，装满蜂蜜或又臭又粘的液体， it makes no difference to its b
30、eauty or ugliness. 而这一切都不影响瓷瓶的美与丑 But a woman is alive, and her beauty is therefore not skin deep. 但人是活生生的，因而她的美不是表面的。 The surface of the human vessel is affected by the nature of its spiritual contents. 人这种容器受其精神内涵的影响。 I have seen women who, by the standards of a connoisseur of porcelain, 瓷器鉴赏家 wer
31、e ravishingly lovely. 我见过一些女人，如果用瓷器鉴赏家的标准来衡量，她们可爱得迷人。 Their shape, their colour, their surface texture were perfect. And yet they were not beautiful. 她们的外形、色彩、表面质地都完美无缺，然而她们却不美， For the lovely vase was either empty or filled with some corruption. 因为这可爱的花瓶不是空空如也便是充满了某种腐朽， Spiritual emptiness or uglin
32、ess shows through. 精神空虚或灵魂丑恶透过外表显露出来。 And conversely, there is an interior light 心靈的光芒 that can transfigure forms that the pure aesthetician would regard as imperfect or downright ugly. 相反，有种心灵的光芒可以把纯唯美主义者们认为有缺陷或简直是丑陋的外形变得美好。 There are numerous forms of psychological ugliness. 多种形式的心理丑陋， There is an
33、 ugliness of stupidity, for example, of unawareness (distressingly common among pretty women). An ugliness also of greed, of lasciviousness好色的, of avarice. 还有贪心、淫荡、贪婪无厌。 例如愚蠢、无自知之明（在漂亮女人中此现象普遍得令人苦恼） ， All the deadly sins, indeed, have their own peculiar 奇特的 negation of beauty.一切遭天谴的大罪都以其奇特的方式损坏美。 On
34、 the pretty faces of those especially who are trying to have a continuous “good time,“ 在那些漂亮的脸蛋上，特别是在那些企图不停“享乐”的人的脸蛋上， one sees very often a kind of bored sullenness that ruins 破壞 all their charm. 常常可以看到一种厌倦的、阴沉的神情，破坏了他们的容貌。 I remember in particular two young American girls I once met in North Afric
35、a. 我特别记得我曾在北非遇见的两个年轻美国女郎。 From the porcelain specialists point of view, they were beautiful. 从瓷器专家的观点来看，她们是美丽的， But the sullen boredom of which I have spoken was so deeply stamped into their fresh faces, 但我上面谈到的那种阴沉厌倦的神情如此深深地刻在了她们年轻的脸上， their gait 步態 and gestures 姿態 expressed so weary a listlessness
36、, that it was unbearable to look at them. 她们的步伐和姿态表现出无聊与无精打采，真让人受不了。 These exquisite creatures were positively repulsive. 这些精美的人物的确令人厌恶。 Still commoner and no less repellent is the hardness which spoils 損壞 so many pretty faces. 更为常见且同样使人反感的是损害了漂亮面孔的冷酷表情。 Often, it is true, this air of hardness is du
37、e not to psychological causes, 诚然，冷酷的表情有时不是出于心理原因， but to the contemporary 當代 habit of over-painting. 而是当今面部过度化妆的习惯引起的。 In Paris, where this over-painting is most pronounced, many women have ceased to look human at all. 在过度化妆非常明显的巴黎，许多妇女已经根本不像人了。 Whitewashed and ruddled, they seem to be wearing masks.
