1、1旗袍:展示女性之美,尽显巾帼风范旗袍是近代女性服饰的经典代表,它沉淀了中国千百年来的服饰文化的精华,诠释着二十世纪上半叶中国城市女性特有的时尚气质。她以高贵华丽、优雅端庄、风情万种、清纯朴实等表情充分展现着东方女性之美。 镜头拉回到 G20 杭州峰会现场。2016 年 9 月 4 日晚,为各国嘉宾举行的欢迎宴会上,礼仪小姐和工作人员一袭精心设计的旗袍惊艳了很多人,白衣黑裙,一抹江南水墨画印在胸前,衬托着杭州姑娘的淡雅与端庄。 旗袍是中国传统服装的代表,一袭温柔,一番韵味,一种象征,一个标志,其本质内涵是闪亮的中国传统文化。 民族服饰代言者:历史文化的凝聚,审美情趣的展示 在女人的旧梦里,永远
2、有一种如丝如缕、割舍不断的旗袍情结。它矜持、内敛地潜藏在心底深处,像雨巷里的一抹哀愁、像弥漫的栀子香,像裁剪的春风无声地诉说着逝去岁月的斑斓与繁华。 旗袍形成于上个世纪 20 年代,关于旗袍文化的起源,学术界一直存有争议,顾名思义有的认为起源于清朝满蒙八旗女子入关前所穿的“旗人之袍” 、 “旗女之衣” 。也有学者认为其源头可以追溯到先秦两汉时代的衣饰。民国时旗袍是最普遍的女子时尚服装。在那个时代旗袍还被确定为国家礼服之一。 2近代中国的两位知名女性宋庆龄和宋美龄,她们在一些重要场合都是身穿旗袍,不仅体现出东方女性的美丽,更将旗袍升华成了中国的国服。宋庆龄不仅自己爱穿旗袍,抗战时期,她曾将旗袍作
3、为国粹送给斯诺夫人海伦?斯诺。海伦?斯诺的好友玻莉穿着这件旗袍,在美国为中国抗战到处演讲募捐筹款。海伦斯诺临终前有个心愿,要把这件中国旗袍完璧归赵。1998 年这件漂泊了 60 年的旗袍终于回到“宋庆龄故居” 。著名社会活动家、传奇?A 裔女士陈香梅一生爱穿旗袍。2014 年她把自己的旗袍连同中文资料捐赠给浙江大学。她所捐赠的旗袍现在就陈列在浙江大学紫金港校区展厅。 上世纪 50 年代后,旗袍在大陆渐渐被冷落,尤其文革中被视为“封建糟粕” 、 “资产阶级情调”遭受批判。80 年代之后随着传统文化在内地重新被重视,以及影视文化、时装表演、选美等带来的影响,旗袍不仅逐渐在中国复兴,还遍及世界各时尚
4、之地。1984 年,旗袍被国务院指定为女性外交人员礼服。2011 年,旗袍手工制作工艺成为国务院批准公布的第三批国家级非物质文化遗产之一。2014 年 3 月,中国旗袍会成立,名誉会长为彭丽媛。2014 年 11 月,在北京举行的第 22 届 APEC 会议上,中国政府选择旗袍作为与会各国领导人夫人的服装。 旗袍作为中国传统服饰的典型代表,不仅仅是一种服饰类型,更是一种象征、一种标志,是社会心理与社会思潮的外在物化形式,在其服饰符号的表征下隐含的本质内涵是中国传统的文化特色。透过旗袍在国人心中长盛不衰的魅力,我们可以找到中华民族审美情趣的历史积淀。 3西湖的旗袍秀:杭州有一群人让旗袍流行起来
5、2016 年 9 月 17 日清晨,雨后的杭州城弥漫着潮湿与清新。在断桥残雪,聚集了 600 多位旗袍佳丽。99 广场舞、99 广场舞杭州分会主办“旗袍美人?西湖之约”活动,身着款式各异旗袍的美人们,撑一把油纸伞,沿着西湖,袅袅而行,大展婀娜身姿,传统服饰的魅力与出其不意的惊喜,吸引众多游客驻足,并引来了记者、摄影爱好者们的镜头聚焦。 参加旗袍盛会的女士平均年龄 56 岁,年纪最大的 68 岁,最小的也有 50 岁。虽然脸上有岁月的痕迹,有的甚至头发已经花白,但是个个身段玲珑。她们挺胸缓步,一颦一蹙的面部神态一点不输给专业的模特。她们展示给人们的不仅仅是对中国百年国粹旗袍文化的热爱,更是传播对
6、美的爱好和追求。 “我觉得杭州女人就应该如此,着一袭旗袍,典雅娴静,风情万种。”一位杭州北山街的女士如此向笔者表达自己的看法。杭州,这座江南的精致之城,似乎与旗袍有着一种不解之缘。 在杭州,有这么一家店铺,拥有 119 年的历史。店面不大,但做的每一件旗袍都被当作宝贝放了起来。不仔细看,还以为走到了博物馆呢。2011 年, “振兴祥”被国务院公布入选第三批国家级非物质文化遗产名录。“旗袍不是一般的奢侈品,是真正珍贵的东西。 ”“镶、嵌、滚、宕、盘、钉、勾、绣” ,每一道工序都带着匠人的温度,纯手工工艺。 而从繁华浓艳的上海滩到秀美的西子湖,叶建英、叶丽英这对双生姐妹接过旗袍手艺,传承祖母手中的
7、女红,从小缝制作坊到规模化的工厂,用双手撑起了杭州十大女装品牌之一的葳芸服饰。 4如果说叶氏姐妹的旗袍情结启蒙自祖母,那么,她们的下一代正在续写这份传奇。汪振威是专注设计的姐姐叶建英的儿子,他希望通过“互联网+”等新技术将葳芸品牌推向更大的舞台;陈泓瑾是负责开拓市场的妹妹叶丽英的女儿,她大学便选择服装设计专业,一直致力于新式旗袍的改良,为旗袍充实现代元素。现在,这对从小在旗袍堆里长大的姐弟,在葳芸一个负责开拓市场,一个负责设计。他们让叶家姐妹更坚定大干一番的心愿,使葳芸成为具有中国服饰文化的国际品牌。 在杭州,还有一位大学“新闻学”学霸桂娜,被旗袍之美深深吸引,之后她创立了自己的品牌“和兮”
8、,并入驻了两家杭州最高档的星级酒店:杭州西子湖四季酒店与香格里拉城中店。 桂娜的旗袍业务以手工定制为主,她说定制的旗袍就像完美的恋人,它懂得欣赏你的优点、包容你的缺点。如今,很多客人都希望旗袍能够满足更多日常穿着的需求,这样就需要对传统旗袍作出一些改良。她说她对旗袍改良的理念正如一句话:重要的越来越少,但留下的越来越重要。 传统经典旗袍多为右衽大襟的开襟或半开襟形式,包边盘纽、摆侧开衩,充分体现东方女性的优美线条。但是侧襟盘纽的穿着方式比较繁琐,多少与现代的快节奏生活格格不入。于是,桂娜将旗袍的穿着方式改为晚礼服一样的后背拉链式。同时,把旗袍侧襟盘纽的样式作为装饰保留下来,方便穿着的同时不失旗
9、袍的典雅韵味。 东方女性之美:旗袍尽显巾帼魅力 要穿旗袍,首先得有?俗嫉摹岸?方身材” ,修长的腿,细溜滑腻的肩,盈手可握的小蛮腰,胸部丰5满,凹凸有致。旗袍是玲珑剔透的,需要种种温婉气质的陪衬,方能体现出这份雅致。它需要的不仅是纱幔低垂的水阁、烛影摇曳的灯光,古木铜镜,竹叶婆娑,月凉风袭,还需要一个温婉似水、跟它一样玲珑剔透的女子。一个女人若能穿出旗袍真正的意韵,那种摄人心魂的魅惑,远不是平常什么时装所能比拟的。珍珠项链、玉镯是旗袍的传统伴侣,但最新的伙伴是小巧而璀璨的名表,它和怀旧的旗袍撞击出时代感极强的火花。 旗袍被誉为中华服饰文化的代表,它以流动的旋律、潇洒的画意与浓郁的诗情,表现出中
10、华女性贤淑、典雅、温柔、清丽的性情与气质。虽然现在已很难看见身着旗袍、左手执油纸伞、右手执香扇的雅致美女款款而行,但那唯美的景象至今令很多人向往。 有人这样诠释旗袍:旗袍,是一种内与外和谐统一的典型传统旧时时装,被誉为近代中国女性时装的代表。她诠释了 20 世纪上半叶的中国城市女性特有的时尚性情与气质。它追随着时代,承载了中华服饰文化的文明,显露出中华女性良好的修养与个人美德,衍化为天地间一道绚丽的彩虹。 事实上,旗袍的发展史反映了中国近现代女性的审美情趣,旗袍文化展现出妇女个性解放和妇女地位逐步提高的过程,是女性解放的见证和载体。她既有沧桑变幻的往昔,更拥有焕然一新的现在。在传统与现代、维护
11、传统的保守与追求唯美的思想潮流碰撞中,旗袍越来越贴近时代、贴近生活,脱离原来的样式,变得更为经济便利、美观适体。 旗袍,高贵香凝,曼妙动人。一想到它,就仿佛感觉到那种摇曳了6上百年的风情和妩媚不管穿越了多少苍茫岁月,无论经历了怎样的风尘遮蔽,旗袍那织金绣银、镶绲盘花的华彩始终长留人心! Hangzhou Loves Qipao By Zhu Fengjuan Hangzhou is a city in love with Qipao, a traditional Chinese dress for women. One of the latest evidences is the young
12、waitresses dressed in Qipao at the grand banquet for VIPs attending the G20 Hangzhou Summit on the evening of September 2016. Although fashion experts agree that Qipao represents the tenderness, charm and grace of the traditional Chinese dressmaking, but they disagree with each other about the genes
13、is of the elegant wear. Some say it was based on the long robe worn by women of the ethnic Manchu before they came south and set up the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). This can be understood easily. The Manchu women did wear a robe in this style and Qi in Qipao refers to banner, which suggests tribes of t
14、he Manchu people. Some argue, however, that such a robe style for women can be traced back to the central kingdom during the pre-Qin period, that is, more than 2,000 years ago. It was in the 1920s that Qipao became very popular in China 7after it was officially declared as a formal dress for state-l
15、evel ceremonies. The popularity waned in the 1950s and it was dismissed as something of petty bourgeoisie during the Cultural Revolution (1966-1976). Qipao made a big comeback in the 1980s as China made its comeback to modernization. In 1984, Qipao was designated by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs a
16、s a formal dress for Chinese female diplomats. In 2011, the tailoring workmanship of Qipao was inscribed as a national intangible cultural heritage by the State Council. In March 2014, China Qipao Society came into being and Peng Liyuan acted as honorary president. In November 2014, Qipao was chosen
17、 by Chinese government as a ceremonious dress for the wives of the state leaders attending the 22nd APEC Summit Beijing. Hangzhou has been in love with Qipao for a long time. One of the tailor shops that still custom-make the dress in the city is Zhengxingxiang. It is 119 years old now. The shop isn
18、t spacious and it can be mistaken as a museum. In 2011, the shop was inscribed on the third list of national intangible cultural heritage. For these Qipao makers in the city, Qipao is more than a luxury. It is something really precious. They put heart and soul into the making of a Qipao. Ye Jianying
19、 and Ye Liying are twin sisters. They inherited 8their grandmothers passion for Qipao making. Their Qipao tailor shop has long since grown into a fashion factory. The twin sisters Weiyun is one of the top ten fashion brands of the city. A daughter and a son of the twin sisters are now taking over th
20、e joint venture business. The daughter Chen Hongjin studied fashion in college and now is in charge of fashion design. The son Wang Zhenwei is in charge of marketing. The young grew up together with Qipao and are now determined to further promote the family tradition to the world. Gui Na, a woman wh
21、o studied journalism in university, now operates two Qipao boutiques in top-class hotels in downtown Hangzhou. She has introduced some key modifications to the tradition. A Qipao show on the morning of September 17, 2016 can be a telltale sign of how the city loves Qipao. The show was named Qipao Be
22、auties: A Date with West Lake. More than 600 women used the Broken Bridge as the standard catwalk and featured their Qipao. They were averagely 56 years old and the oldest was 68. Their representation wowed tourists, locals and journalists. The 600 models gave one a clue about how many more women in the city own a Qipao.